Timepieces as Investments

Which Watches Are Worth Investing In?

The right luxury watch is more than a statement piece—it can be a tangible asset that holds or increases in value over time. Learn which brands, models, and factors drive appreciation in the luxury watch market.

Beyond the Wrist

Why Watches as Investments

Luxury watches occupy a unique space at the intersection of craftsmanship, culture, and financial value—a tangible asset you can wear and enjoy every day.

~7%
Average annual appreciation for top-tier brands, 2013–2022
20%+
Annual gains for select sought-after references in peak years
10–20%
Value premium for watches sold with original box and papers

Unlike stocks and bonds, a luxury watch is a tangible, portable asset that you can physically hold, wear, and enjoy. The luxury watch market has demonstrated long-term resilience, with certain brands and models consistently outperforming traditional investments over specific periods. While past performance never guarantees future results, the combination of limited production, growing global demand, and enduring cultural appeal makes select timepieces compelling stores of value.

Compared to real estate, watches offer lower barriers to entry, no maintenance costs, complete portability, and no property taxes. Compared to equities, they provide the satisfaction of ownership, tangible value that does not disappear in a market crash, and a hedge against inflation. Of course, they also come with unique risks: liquidity can vary, condition matters enormously, and market sentiment can shift. A thoughtful approach that balances passion with pragmatism yields the best results.

The Brands That Hold Value

Top Investment Brands

Not all luxury watches appreciate equally. These four brands have the strongest track records for value retention and growth on the secondary market.

The Blue Chip

Rolex

Rolex is the most recognizable watch brand in the world, and its sport models are the backbone of the watch investment market. The combination of limited authorized dealer supply, massive global demand, and exceptional build quality creates a secondary market where many models trade above retail price. Discontinued models routinely command premiums, and historically popular references have seen estimated average appreciation of 8–10% annually over certain periods.

Top performers: Submariner, Daytona, GMT-Master II
The Pinnacle

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe produces fewer than 70,000 watches per year and maintains an almost mythical status among collectors. The Nautilus 5711, before its discontinuation, became legendary for its appreciation trajectory. Patek’s complicated watches—perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, and grand complications—hold extraordinary value. The brand’s philosophy that you are merely custodian of a Patek for the next generation drives powerful long-term demand.

Top performers: Nautilus, Aquanaut, Perpetual Calendar
The Icon

Audemars Piguet

The Royal Oak, designed by Gerald Genta in 1972, revolutionized the luxury sport watch category and remains one of the most coveted timepieces in the world. Audemars Piguet produces roughly 50,000 watches annually, and the scarcity of Royal Oak models in particular drives strong secondary market premiums. Limited editions and special collaborations can see significant appreciation shortly after release.

Top performers: Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Code 11.59
The Entry Point

Omega

Omega offers the most accessible entry point into watch investing. The Speedmaster Professional—the “Moonwatch”—is one of the most iconic timepieces ever made and has shown steady appreciation, particularly vintage references. While Omega produces more watches than the brands above, select models and limited editions hold value well. Vintage Omega pieces from the 1950s–1970s have seen strong collector demand and corresponding price growth.

Top performers: Speedmaster Professional, Seamaster 300, vintage Constellation
Understanding Value

What Makes a Watch Appreciate

Beyond brand name, several specific factors determine whether a particular watch will hold or increase in value over time.

📄

Reference Numbers Matter

Specific reference numbers within a model line can have vastly different values. A Submariner ref. 116610LN is a different investment than a ref. 124060. Research the exact reference, not just the model name, before making a purchase decision.

📦

Box & Papers Add 10–20%

A complete set—original box, warranty card, hang tags, instruction booklet, and purchase receipt—can add 10 to 20% to a watch’s resale value. For collectible references, this premium can be even higher. Never discard original packaging.

🔧

Service History

A documented service history from authorized or reputable independent watchmakers demonstrates proper care and mechanical reliability. Watches serviced with original manufacturer parts retain more value than those with third-party components.

🌟

Limited & Discontinued Models

Scarcity drives value. Limited edition watches with documented production numbers and discontinued models that are no longer available at retail often see the strongest appreciation as supply permanently decreases while collector demand grows.

🧰

Steel Over Gold

Counterintuitively, stainless steel luxury sport watches often appreciate more than their gold counterparts. Steel models are produced in larger numbers but attract broader demand, and their lower entry price point creates a bigger pool of potential buyers on the secondary market.

💫

Condition Is King

A watch in excellent, unpolished condition with all original parts commands a significant premium over the same reference that has been heavily worn, improperly polished, or fitted with replacement parts. Original lume, hands, and bezels matter enormously to collectors.

Practical Advice

Watch Investment Tips

Whether you are buying your first investment-grade timepiece or adding to an existing collection, these principles will help you make smarter decisions.

1

Buy What You Love

The golden rule of watch investing: never buy a watch solely for its investment potential. Markets shift, tastes change, and liquidity is never guaranteed. If you love the watch on your wrist, you will never feel like you made a bad decision—regardless of what happens to its resale value.

2

Buy from Authenticated Sources

Always purchase from authorized dealers or reputable pre-owned dealers who provide authentication and documentation. A counterfeit or misrepresented watch has zero investment value. The money saved buying from an unverified source is never worth the risk.

3

Keep Everything

Box, papers, warranty card, hang tags, receipt, extra links—keep it all, stored safely. These accessories are not just packaging; they are integral components of the watch’s provenance and can represent thousands of dollars in additional resale value.

4

Service Regularly, but Wisely

Follow manufacturer-recommended service intervals to maintain mechanical integrity. However, avoid unnecessary cosmetic work. Over-polishing can reduce the case dimensions and diminish collector value. Always use authorized or highly reputable independent watchmakers.

5

Avoid the Hype

Watches that spike in value due to social media trends or celebrity endorsements often correct sharply. The most reliable long-term performers are established models with decades of collector history, not the latest influencer favorite. Patience and research outperform impulse buying.

6

Consider Vintage

Vintage watches from the 1950s through 1980s have a proven track record of appreciation and tend to be less susceptible to market hype cycles. They offer unique character, historical significance, and a collector base that has been growing steadily for decades.

7

Understand the Risks

Not all luxury watches appreciate. The market experienced a significant correction in 2022–2023 after years of rapid growth. Liquidity varies by brand and model, and selling quickly may require accepting below-market offers. Treat watches as a passion-first investment, not a primary financial strategy.

Disclaimer: This guide is for educational purposes only and does not constitute financial or investment advice. Past performance of luxury watches does not guarantee future returns. Watch values can decline as well as appreciate. Always conduct your own research and consult with qualified professionals before making investment decisions.
Common Questions

Watch Investment FAQ

Certain luxury watches have historically appreciated in value, with select models from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet seeing significant gains. However, watch investing carries risks. Not all watches appreciate, the market can be volatile, and liquidity varies. The best approach is to buy watches you genuinely enjoy wearing while being aware of their investment potential.
Historically, the Rolex Submariner, Daytona, and GMT-Master II have been among the strongest performers for value retention and appreciation. Discontinued references tend to command premiums over time. Steel sport models generally outperform precious metal dress watches in terms of percentage appreciation on the secondary market. Our team at Diamonds Above can help you identify specific references with strong investment profiles.
There is no guaranteed rate of return for watches. Historically, the luxury watch market saw an estimated average annual appreciation of around 7% for top-tier brands from 2013 to 2022, with certain models seeing 20% or more in peak years. However, the market experienced corrections in 2022–2023, demonstrating that appreciation is not linear or guaranteed. Past performance does not predict future results.
Yes, significantly. A luxury watch with its original box, papers, warranty card, and purchase receipt can command 10 to 20% more than the identical watch without these accessories. For certain collectible references, the premium can be even higher. Always keep all original packaging and documentation in a safe, dry place.
Both approaches have merit. Buying new from an authorized dealer ensures authenticity and full manufacturer warranty, but popular models often have long waitlists. Buying pre-owned from a reputable dealer like Diamonds Above gives you access to discontinued references and immediate availability, often at prices that have already adjusted from retail. The key is buying from a trusted, authenticated source regardless of whether you choose new or pre-owned. to discuss your options.
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